30 October, 2015

We went to Haarlem

Though this may say that we're mere Innocents Abroad, aren't these place names, and the prospect of visiting them, great?
















Some of the things you can see here:
















We visited the beautiful St. Bavo's Church, which was so much more occupied, which felt so much more church-like than its counterpart in Amsterdam. Here was our impression, at the time: 

"We go down to the St. Bavo Church, or the Grote Kerk. In we go, and take a pretty thorough run through it. Thanks to that helpful pamphlet they gave us.  Thanks also to some experience, and patience. And to the building itself. Pretty amazing! Such serenity, such lovely cool air, so many beautifully textured surfaces. And the organ, which we come to understand is very celebrated. Someone had pulled out the stops, and the exultant sound was filling the space most wonderfully. Immediately after, that same someone came down and went to one of the smaller side chapels, and began to play on a much smaller instrument in preparation for a noon-day prayer service.  

"We found ourselves thinking of the beautiful St. John’s Chapel in the Tower of London. We thought very much of the Kirkwall Cathedral. In fact, these old Dutch cities definitely echo the feeling generally that you get in the Orkneys. That I got, anyway. Ancient, serene, sufficient. Really great!  It’s Ingmar Bergman’s cathedral essay, or Orson Welles talking about Chartres, in F for Fake.  The Body of Christ. The beauty of the earth.  As we've mentioned so and too often, hurray for our Mormon chapels. But imagine worshiping in a place like this, and how nobly it would equip you to go out into your community and serve."
























Here's the Grote Markt, or the great market (obviously). St. Bavo's is just barely in frame, to the right.
















We sat and sat here, for quite a while. And that was after walking and walking. Reflections: 

"We are watching these faces and bodies, as we have been all day, as we have been all week. What an array! Is this Rembrandt’s encyclopedia of countenances? Maybe not. I think I just made that up, or hoped it into existence. I don’t know that that is R.’s actual accomplishment. Are these van Gogh’s facial types? Definitely, but I understand that van Gogh didn’t actually get that far with or do so many of them. Jan Steen's the proper painter to cite, isn't he? [http://bit.ly/1KKbknr

But maybe this phenomenon that we're thinking about is more modern. Is it August Sander? [http://www.moma.org/collection/artists/5145Definitely, except that that’s still got it backwards. Sander didn’t invent or create his bestiary. He gathered what had always been, but not always thought of, or bothered with. The thing is, you don’t really need an artist or a photographer. You just need this country!

"These Netherlanders certainly have a look!  Maybe several looks. Maybe, certainly, it’s a universality. Chaucer! God’s plenty! We're thinking of their amazing hair, of the red, yellow, gold pattern. Of these curls, and of such variety! There are certainly some impressive specimens, but look how ugly so many of these people are. How fascinatingly ugly, and how many of these same people are arm-in-arm, hand-in-hand, in almost ardent embrace with some other equally, blessedly ugly woman or man. Why not? Of course!

"And is ugly right? This isn’t any kind of R. W. Fassbinder assemblage here. No, it might just be post-peasantry, a great, universal victory after the manner of the Aristotelian comedy. In this merchant nation the small man rose, with a vengeance, and now look at him promenade!" 
...

We love Corrie Ten Boom's The Hiding Place. Here's where all that happened!


























May we pause to report that the presentation here was kind of disappointing? Our nice host, doubtless at the behest of her superiors, was much more concerned with ministry than with history. The result of this priority or emphasis demonstrates again that just because you and your beliefs are good, doesn't mean that the artistic or educational presentation built on those beliefs will automatically or necessarily be any good. Not just message, but the crafting of same!

Visiting the Van Gogh Museum

Here she is again ...























This actual palette gives a good idea of what's different, difficult, special about this guy:
















Great spaces ...































Here's the account: 

"Four … hours … later … Kind of exhausting!  Pretty great. What a world class place! And the artist—he’s no Rembrandt, is he? He’s not Raphael, no Titian or Turner or Cezanne. He’s got all sorts of limitations. Not to mention the vulgarities that have grown up around him and his legacy, around his actual accomplishments. Some of these, inevitably, are present in this museum.  

















"Well that’s to think about, and to recognize. But if Van Gogh isn’t quite a Plenitude, he sure is some kind of sufficiency! Sharon and I made our way through separately, in our own fashion. Very good. Should I detail? I should not. It was a superb space, superbly presenting such superb material. Remember the Mulberry Tree, at the Norton Simon? Well take a look at Orchards in Blossom/View of Arles. At these Almond Blossoms, for his new-born nephew! At the Cypresses and the Two Women!! I don’t double exclaim very often. The Irises!! And his illness, the astounding or maybe pathological 75 paintings in the last 70 days, the positively Ypres-like Snow Covered Field and Harrow, the hard to deny terror, seemingly, of Wheat Field with Crows.  The Landscape at Twilight!
























"And that was just the museum's final floor, which records v.g.'s final dissolution. These days the facts of the case are more clear, aren’t they? Leave these poor afflicted folk alone. After all, he also painted the Harvest, didn’t he? Gave his life to it, and we’re the beneficiaries? 

















"There were lots of supplemental paintings too, from other major figures, and other major figures we know less about. (And then there’s the Van Gogh/Munch exhibit! We race through one big gallery, and then leave enough to be enough.) Tired feet! But boy was that worth it. Worth coming all the way over for, in fact. We pause to note, with be/musement, that the Rijksmuseum is going to be a lot bigger n’ deeper than this. It looks positively threatening over there. We’re exhausted! Pretty happily though! That’s 164 paintings, plus another 42, that we tried to do right by. Like I said, pretty great!"


The Stedelijk, or Amsterdam's museum of modern art
























































29 October, 2015

Beautiful Leiden

We took a day trip.

No matter what I did, Mum kept showing up in every dangin' photograph

















Piet Mondrian is still alive and well, as you can see:

















This building houses the new office of the Belgium-Netherlands mission of the LDS church.



















Sis. Duncan, Sis. Robison, and a triumph of the photographic art:














Obligatory/bonus! Observe that Mum's eyes are closed, just like Sarah's were when she stood here last April.























Mum is starting to show up in these photos with an almost chilling frequency, reminiscent of the malevolent and ultimately fatal rain coat-clad dwarf in Nicholas Roeg's film version of Daphne Du Maurier's Don't Look Now.

















The windmill in the background of the previous shot is also a windmill museum in real life. Mere picturesqueness gives way to good information, a sense of history and context.

Vertiginous ...





















We took a nice long walk, all through the town.




















A new corner of a very old university:

















This is cool.

















You've got to be joking! Leiden is so pretty that it's almost annoying ...


We went on a canal tour

Sometimes you do the touristical thing.
















They told us to take a picture at this point:
















As close as we got to Anne Frank's house, which is a really subscribed-to spot.























It may look like she's saying a prayer, but really she's just nodding off.


Textures, doors and floors